Aluminium is a soft metal that produces a blackish residue on the surface to ‘protect itself’. This residue normally isn’t too evident or problematic, however, issues can arise when cleaning products containing sulphuric or hydrochloric acid (turpentine, etc.) are used. The black oxidisation residue increases and shows more on the finish. This can begin to rub off onto surrounding soft furnishings or clothing. Please follow the below cleaning instructions:

• Wipe up spills immediately using a clean dry cloth.
• Avoid use of steel wool or scouring pads. We suggest using Brasso to clean the stain mark.
• Do not use bleach or any detergent containing sulphuric or hydrochloric acid.

Iron and bronze pieces are taken care of in much the same way as timber furniture – they just need an occasional wax. However, in areas of high traffic or that are exposed to abnormal interior humidity, iron may require more frequent maintenance. To remove any rust that may form if maintenance has not been frequent enough, use #0000 steel wool to remove the build-up of rust, then rub in furniture wax with a soft cloth. Best results are achieved by warming the iron or bronze with a hairdryer and applying a good quality paste of furniture wax. This will allow the wax to best penetrate the surface for longer-lasting protection. Buff with a soft cloth and use a horsehair brush if you need to get into crevices or hard to reach areas. Ensure that you protect your surrounding furniture and flooring prior to treating your piece as rust and wax can stain

Keep metal dry to prevent tarnishing which can dull or destroy the surface.

Is recommended for indoor or sheltered applications. Exposed to salty air, it will discolour and eventually corrode. However we can have them coated used in the furniture industry, that is the least susceptible to corrosion (PVD). Most of the industry standards are based on neutral salt spray (ASTM B117) or CASS (Copper-Accelerated Acetic Acid-Salt Spray)(ASTM-B368). Zirconium Nitride (ZrN) has shown to surpass 1200 hours of neutral salt spray and over 150 hours CASS on electroplated brass. PVD Coatings has proven to adhere best to chrome plated materials and stainless steel. Some materials are not electroplated and the PVD coating is applied directly to the substrate material (Titanium alloys and Graphite). Provided the material is thoroughly chrome plated with a Nickel/Chromium almost any material can be PVD coated. PVD maintenance is simple. You can use a soft cloth with mild soap and water. Avoid all products designed to remove tarnish or rust, and contain hydrochloric, hydrofluoric, and/or phosphoric acid or caustic agents. Also bleach and scouring pads (such as Scotch Brite®).

PVD maintenance is simple. You can use a soft cloth with mild soap and water. Avoid all products designed to remove tarnish or rust, and contain hydrochloric, hydrofluoric, and/or phosphoric acid or caustic agents. Also bleach and scouring pads (such as Scotch Brite®). Leather does not need a great deal of day-to-day maintenance. Periodic dusting with a soft, dry cloth should be enough. It is important to avoid placing leather sofas near heat sources or direct light. Oily stains are the biggest danger to leather surfaces. In the event of stains from oils, fats, makeup, chocolate or beverages, remove any excess liquid by dabbing with an absorbent paper towel. Gently wipe the stain from the outside edges towards the centre with a clean cloth dampened with water and neutral soap. Dry the stain, gently wiping with a dry cloth.

No fabric, even those tested to industry requirements, is 100 percent colourfast and it is impossible to prevent fading if the right precautions are not taken, any room with a lot of daylight can cause susceptible fabrics to fade. Fumes from fires of all kinds, car exhausts and kitchen stoves produce a sulphur compound which, when combined with humidity and oxygen, produces a mild sulphuric acid. This can cling to the fabric and contribute to deterioration and discolouration. Regular professional cleaning can help minimise the impact of this. All fabrics are prone to shrinkage, as a result, sufficient allowance should be made. An allowance of three percent is an acceptable industry standard.

Although our wooden collections often have lacquered surfaces and can generally tolerate heat from coffee cups and dinner plates, they cannot tolerate greater temperatures. The lacquer applied to our timber products is water-resistant, however, cannot tolerate excessive quantities of liquid. Dry any spills immediately and polish the surface, otherwise liquid may seep through the lacquer and cause irreparable damage. Timber can develop a cloudy appearance caused by condensation when hot items are placed on its surface. This cloudy appearance cannot be removed unless the whole table is resurfaced Timbers, especially solid timbers, are natural products and as such have tendencies to move over time and depending on the moisture content of the environment they are in. Almost all solid timbers will move to some degree. This may result in small gaps which are called ‘checks’. These are normal for solid timbers however are less common on veneers. Timbers may also carry ‘natural characteristics’. These include knots, burl detailing, checks, distressing, uneven surfaces, bow’s and scratches. These elements are often kept in the product pre-finishing to ensure that the ‘natural beauty’ of the product is maintained.

Always avoid cleaning painted timber with liquids and harsh chemicals. To clean your painted timber surface, use a dust cloth or feather duster to remove dust and debris. Removing dust is essential as dust collection absorbs and holds moisture on humid days and damp evenings, causing the timber to expand and crack.

You may use a slightly damp cloth or mild detergent in lukewarm water to remove liquids that might stain, however be sure that the cloth is not soaked excessively and the surface is dried with a clean dry cloth immediately after wetting.

Specific timbers used in outdoor furniture, such as Teak, New Guinea Rosewood, carry a higher than usual oil content, ensuring greater resistance to the elements than less oiled timbers. Outdoor timbers change over time, with most fading and changing colour to a more grey appearance. Natural tannins inside the timber are also released over time and this ‘leaching’ may stain some surfaces.

Outdoor synthetic fibres and weaves are generally UV resistant, colourfast, water repellent, frost proof and are fairly low maintenance. They can withstand extreme temperatures and are suitable for use all year round. Most synthetic weaves are made from a high density polyethylene material. Over time dirt may build up inside the weave and provide a hold for mould and algae, so it is recommended that you regularly clean your synthetic outdoor setting with soap and water. Use a soft brush and rinse with cold water. To prolong the life of your cushions, bring them inside when not in use (even if the foam and fabric are outdoor grade).

To clean rattan furniture brush regularly with a dry medium-bristle brush, such as a vegetable brush, to remove dirt build-up from between the reed strands. If very dirty, or to spot clean stains, use a mild detergent or a furniture cleaner. Take care however, as although rattan, wicker and cane can withstand moisture to a certain extent, they will become limp, loose and saggy with too much water. Wicker will resume its size and shape when it dries, but if too much water has been used in cleaning, the strands of reed may be disturbed and remain distorted after drying. Some rattan and cane products are sun-bleached, distressed and/or stained. Sun-bleached or distressed cane is lighter in colour and generally a little harder than a natural or dark colour cane. Cane is sometimes recommended for outdoor use, however if left outdoors it will deteriorate after a few years depending on exposure to the elements. If you desire an outdoor cane-look setting, we recommend that you purchase a synthetic woven product

Stone is very delicate and must be cleaned with pH neutral, gentle cleaners. Acids, even the mild acid in vinegar, will dissolve the finish and permanently etch the surface. Stone is incredibly porous and therefore it likes to soak in liquid spills. If liquid spills do occur, wipe dry as soon as possible by blotting with a clean cloth. The best method for cleaning stone is to wet a clean cloth with lukewarm water to wipe the surface, and to remove any marks. You can use a very mild detergent to remove any tricky stains, but this should not occur more than once every few months. Do not place glasses directly on stone and always use a dry cloth to dry and shine the stone to prevent liquids from getting into the stone core

Shell is a natural product and so it is essential to keep away from direct sunlight, strong sources of heat or very dry atmospheres. If shell is left to dry out, its surface cracks and it becomes less resistant to wear and tear. Avoid using strong abrasives or alcohol to polish the shell, as this will destroy its natural colour. To clean your shell surface, simply wipe down occasionally with a clean, slightly damp cloth, and then blot dry.

Glass and/or mirrored surfaces require low maintenance. A weekly wipe with a slightly damp chamois is sufficient. Glue and pencil marks can be removed by applying some Eucalyptus oil with a soft cloth.

Resin and acrylic are both synthetic materials so they can scratch and mark easily, try to avoid placing sharp objects on their surfaces. You should also always ensure that you do not have the furniture or homewares too close to a heat source. Certain solvents can damage resin and acrylic, it is best to keep your furniture away from harsh chemicals. To clean your furniture, use a mild detergent in lukewarm water with a clean soft cloth to wipe the surface down. Always rinse the detergent off the surface with a new clean cloth. Once the surface has been appropriately cleaned, dry the surface by blotting with a clean soft cloth.